Author: Amalina Baharuddin

Learning Journey Part II

Welcome back guys.

For this part all i want to share is the 8 process of weaving before a woven fabric can be tossed, switched, rolled, interrupted, connected, propelled, twisted and weave.

Once the thread is cleaned and put in a dye of color, it is rinsed with water and keep it dried.

1. “Melikas”

The process of isolating the raw yarn as it not to be crumpled. Raw yarns are divided into small parts (30 strands) and then soaked overnight with ashes from coconut or durian skins. Yarn can also be soaked with alum. Then rinsed and boiled with ordinary water to dispose of unnecessary ingredients. The yarn is then colored according to the design of the fabric to be woven.
*This process is no longer practiced because the imported thread is not wrinkled.

2. “Menganing”

The threads that have undergone the diffusion process are inserted into the appliance to determine the length of the thread to be loaded on the appliance. Normally rolls of warp and weft yarn measuring 26 – 31 m can produce 12 – 14 pieces of fabric.

3. “Menggulung”

The molded yarn will be rolled on the roll board according to the width of the gear tooth and the length of the lotus on the roll board to be loaded. Warp is an elongated yarn on the cake. The yarn position should be checked every three times to ensure smooth arrangement.

4. “Menyampuk”

Tipping is the process of inserting the warp thread into the gear or brush. Usually, this process is done in the cake to keep it easy to tuck the thread into the machine. Each brush hole is applied to two veins of the lotus thread. On both ends of the brush are four threaded threads so that the edges of the cloth are not torn when attached to the fabric. The cloth cover is a wooden child with nails on both ends. The cloth cover keeps the edge of the woven cloth to be equal to the distance and does not twitch.

5. “Menghubung”

Connecting is the process of connecting threads from warp to threads left on the machine. The way the bonds are called the canopy. The process is to connect the warp yarn to weave. The small table is called a 10 cm long table, 8 cm wide and 20 cm is used for connecting.

6. “Mengarak”

The work is done after the process of interruption. Stirring is done by stripping foreign threads or rust yarn to rust, including lasers. The amount of corrosion used is usually only two rust and each rust has four stems

7. “Menyolek”

The most complicated work in the process of weaving songket cloth. How to design a pattern is to propose bamboo skewers on the desired warp thread. Songket cloth is usually woven with three-pointed or five-pointed techniques. If using a five-pointed, every five warp threads, one threaded thread is pushed down and the threads of the base are then disassembled. After the warp thread is above, then you can squeeze in various patterns on warp threads using bamboo skewers. “Belira” is placed on each of the bamboo skewers in turn. “Belira” is upheld to delight the bonding of yarn buttons. These buttons will make the flower pattern or motif on the songket cloth. Upon completion of the tapered process, the stain thread with its rust is converted into a weaving cake to be woven into a songket cloth.

8. “Menenun”

Weaving is the last process, ie the thread of the warp is stepped by the feed yarn to be fabricated. For a full patterned songket fabric, golden threads are stretched through gold thread piston to produce flower pattern embroidery or full pattern design. For horizontal pattern songket or scattered flower pattern, golden threads are stretched through attempts to get the desired motifs. Usually after one gold thread is ripped, it is blown (beat) and followed by two threads feed. Weavers will convert button threads by rotation and predefined patterns. This process is repeated so as to produce a songket cloth.

Learning Journey Part I

Assalamualaikum and good morning guys,

In this post i want to share to you guys what i learned from my previous class with my mentor.

From the previous class, i learned to know the part of our looms. It so important for us to know since we need to handle them during the process of weaving.

But, i am so sorry because all the term of the part of loom in Bahasa Malaysia version.

So, let move to the picture below !

The Part Of Our Loom

Additional Weaving Tools

That all for today, till we meet again.

Feel free to let me know your thoughts and comments on this.

My Mentor

Welcome back guys.
For this latest post i wanna share about someone who willing to be my mentor for my assignment project.

Before i introduce this incredible person, some of you might be think, MENTOR? WHAT IS THAT?

Mentor is someone who whiling to share skills, knowledge, expertise and demonstrate a positive attitude and acts as a positive role model. They also takes a personal interest in the mentoring relationship and provide guidance and constructive feedback.

Ok, done with that.

Let me introduce to you guys my incredible mentor which is,
Cik Fatin Afiqah Binti Mohammad Noh.

She was a former student of Institut Kraf Negara for past year and was an inkubator at Kraftangan Negeri Terengganu. Her specialty of course as you can see at the picture above, Its a handmade weaving! She has experience to join many Kraftangan Festival to demonstrate her talent. One of her festival that she going is at Singapore which is Festival Beautiful Terengganu.

I’m so excited! I can’t wait to learn something new from my mentor.

By the way, did you guys know, my mentor handmade weaving sampin can cost to RM 8000 to Rm 10000 and she only making sampin for someone has booking the slot first.

But in order to put that kind of price, you have to do your work very details, very exclusive, very passionately.

Okey, that all for today.
I will keep on sharing my progress to you guys soon.


Till we meet again.
Love, Nina

Type of Weaving Technique

Plain Weaving

The most basic and possibly the oldest type of weave construction. The warp and weft criss – cross each other at the right angle, with each weft thread passing over one warp thread then under the next warp thread.

Plain weave are sometimes referred as taffeta weaves.

Illustration of Plain Weave


Main features of plain weave :

• Threads interlacing in alternate order.
• The repeat contains two ends and two picks.
• Both sides of the weave are identical.
• Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent threads.
• Texture is stronger and firmer than any other ordinary cloth.
• Made from all kind of textile raw materials and yarns i.e. cotton, linen, jute, man-made fibres, both spun and continuous filament yarns.
• It comprises a high production of the total output of woven fabrics.
• Two heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave, when the number of ends/inch is large (more than 50), four or six heald shafts are used with skip draft.

Illustration of Weft and Warp Thread

Twill Weave

Has a visual diagonal line or rib effect, caused when the weft yarn crosses over and under two or more warp yarns. The diagonal yarn may also be referred to as wale.

Twill weaves are harder wearing than plain weaves of the same yarn and count, and are therefore particularly suited to utility wear. Denim is possibly the most famous of all the work wear fabrics and true denim is of twill-weave better from construction.

Twill fabrics are more pliable (Pliable means bendable but not breakable) and have a better drape. They also tend to recover better from wrinkles.

Illustration of Twill Weave

Main features of twill weave :

• Diagonal line can be seen on the faced of the fabric.
• Twill line may be from the lower lift to upper right (Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift (S-twill) corner.
• Smaller repeat twill take at least three picks to produce twill weave.
• Three or more held shaft are required for shedding.
• Generally straight draft is used for twill weave besides this pointed.
• The twill design can be seen from both sides of fabric.
• Diagonal lines run at angle vary between (15-75) degree but in a contonuous or regular twill is 45 degree.

Twill Weave

Tapestry Weaving

Tapestry weaving is done on a vertical loom. It is sometimes called weft-faced weaving because all the warps are hidden, unlike fabric weaving where both the warps and the wefts may be visible. By only having the weft visible it is possible to create more precise design.

¨Kilims and Navajo blankets and rugs are all forms of tapestry weaving. Navajo rugs and blankets.

Tapestry Weaving

Ikat Weaving

Before weaving, the warps or wefts are dyed different colors at predetermined intervals along their length, using a form of resist or tie-dyeing process. Double ikat implies that both wefts and warps have been dyed.

If the dyed threads are warps the patterns is visible to the weaver, who can adjust them to line up each other. In some cultures the patterns will be aligned to perfection, while in others misalignment is preferred.

Double ikats are the most difficult to produce.

Jacquard Weaving

This weave process is more time consuming and labour intensive than a basic weave. However, jacquard fabric is more stable and stretchy than fabrics created through the basic weave technique.

Jacquard weaves can also be combined with various colours and types of threads. This provides beautiful and soft gradations of colour tones and bold outlined patterns that are very complex, such as landscapes, portraits, and unique designs.

The pictures of Jacquard loom

The jacquard loom enables the automatic production of an unlimited variety of designs.

Jacquard loom is designed to weave fabrics of intricate design whose control mechanism makes use of cards with holes punched in them.




Intricate design Jacquard Weaving



Weaving

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft.

The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth.

Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them.

A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other technique without looms.

The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave

The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves which is plain weave, satin weave or twill.

Woven cloth can be plain in one color or a simple pattern or it also can be woven in decorative or artistic design.

About Me

Hello readers, my name is Nurul Amalina Baharuddin.

Currently, I am taking a Degree in Textile Design with Honors at Uitm Shah Alam and now I am in my fourth semester.

This blog created for my upcoming project for this semester, which I’ll share the progress of my project.

Please do not hesitate to comment on my posts and stay tuned!

Love, Nina.

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